I love surfing, I didn’t think I’d overcome my spook, the fear of drowning, big waves, but with God’s help I was back in the water in no time, It’s been a year of early rising, and early sleeping, being thin, feeling healthy.
There is so much you can get from the ocean, the post oceanic serotonin brain drip. It’s like butterflies in your mind. It’s one of the greatest Euphoric episodes, It’s an addiction with zero side effect. It’s a dragon worth chasing. Paddle out drop down the face draw lines, repeat.
I’ve met some of the nicest and most influential characters in the sea. Some I couldn’t connect with on land but in the water, I can relate to them. The stoke is universal, and that’s good enough for me.
A surfboard is like a functional sculpture, that’s also a canvass.
Science explains how it functions, the sculptors craft it as it should slide. and the bomber, artist graphic designer leaves his mark, slash design on it. What a great way to collaborate.
I’ve only been at this a year now, I don’t claim to know anything except, that I love it, and it’s one thing that has inspired poetry, translated to music, translated into freedom.
My mate Will is a legend, he shapes sick old school retro fish that fly down the face like rockets. Everyday is a party on this thing.
Check out his instagram page https://www.instagram.com/will_shapes_voyager/
This is the board he did for me with my art on, and Keegun Muir who assisted with the compositional aspiring graphic designer and passionate surfer https://www.instagram.com/thatkidkeegan/
“Catch you outside”, at backline.